2009 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Roumier’s 2009 Bonnes-Mares is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Firm yet beautifully integrated tannins provide the backdrop for the highly nuanced, expressive aromas and flavors that emerge from the glass. All the elements are in the right place in this extraordinary, moving wine. At times the Bonnes-Mares comes across as very powerful, at other times it is quite sensual. In other words, it is pure magic in the glass. Burgundy fans will flock to the Musigny because of its rarity but there is a very real possibility that the Bonnes-Mares will outshine it over time. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier’s 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Bright medium red. Distinctly blacker on the nose than the Amoureuses, offering scents of blackberry, blueberry and peony. Wonderfully sweet and energetic on the palate, showing terrific stuffing but coming across as tightly coiled today. At once creamy and structured for long aging. Most impressive today on the firmly tannic, palate-staining finish. Roumier compared this to the 1990 version but says this one has firmer tannins. A great and long-lived wine in the making.

Then came the 2009 Bonnes-Mares. What a wine! While the Musigny showed more of a red fruit profile, the Bonnes-Mares was quite a bit darker. It also had a lot more underlying structure. With time in the glass, hints of menthol, tar and dried roses added complexity. Both wines took us on a journey. Ultimately, though, the Musigny gave up its charms easier, while the Bonnes-Mares continued to open up over several hours, seemingly with something new to say with each taste. It was flat-out monumental. The stuff dreams are made of.