2005 Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses

The 2005 Clos des Goisses is easily one of the wines of what turned out to be a complicated vintage. Just beginning to show the early signs of aromatic complexity, the 2005 graces the palate with the essence of candied lemon, almonds, chamomile, apricot and wild herbs. The 2005 is not the most complex or pedigreed Goisses, but it drinks beautifully today and should continue to deliver pleasure for another 15-20 years, perhaps more.

Not surprisingly, the 2005 Clos des Goisses is still very much a baby. At once dense yet also compact, the 2005 has almost an animal sense of power to it, along with elements of austerity that need time to soften. Brioche, apple tart and smoke are nicely delineated in the bouquet, but otherwise, the 2005 is not giving up much today. As always, Clos des Goisses is built for cellaring. The only question is how long it will be before the 2005 is ready to deliver maximum pleasure. Disgorged November 2013. Dosage is 4 grams/liter.

Pale yellow-gold. Ripe, mineral-tinged orange, yellow plum and pear aromas, with an exotic floral note that expands in the glass. Minerally and energetic on the palate, with densely packed orchard and citrus fruit flavors that offer a suave interplay of depth and vivacity. The seamless, sappy finish features smoky minerals, a hint of honeysuckle and lingering spiciness. Disgorged in November, 2013.