2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambertin Grand Cru

Tasted at the Denis Mortet Chambertin vertical, the 2005 Chambertin Grand Cru compensates for the misfiring 2003 and 2004 vintages. Sadly, Denis Mortet himself never saw the completion of this wine after his untimely passing in January 2006, so the élevage was completed by his son Arnaud. It has a very pure and intense bouquet. When compared to more recent vintages such as the 2010 and 2012 it does come across as relatively high-toned. "Glossy" might be the appropriate word here, but attractive all the same. The palate is medium-bodied, sweet and supple on the entry with kirsch, strawberry coulis and orange sorbet. I appreciate the freshness on the finish, though there is just a touch of warmth at the back of the throat - something that has been addressed by Arnaud in recent vintages. Though I am not as enthused as my only other encounter when I tasted it from barrel, it still constitutes a fine 2005, perhaps the first indication that the domaine was changing direction towards a more refined style. Just 65 cases produced. Tasted January 2016.

(recently sulfited) Good ruby-red. Sexy, pure, high-pitched aromas of raspberry and flowers. Juicy, penetrating and clean, with a texture of liquid silk and lovely purity to its flavors. A step up in lift and length from anything else in the cellar. Finishes with superb length and lingering perfume. Offers a compelling combination of power and finesse.