2009 Amuse Bouche Vin Perdu Red

Sweet dark cherries, mocha, menthol and licorice flow across the palate in the 2009 Vin Perdu. Merlot plays the leading role in this juicy, fruit-driven wine. The 2009 is totally different from the 2008, but is quite beautiful all the same. Hints of tobacco, sweet herbs and flowers linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. Proprietor John Schwartz believes California is capable of making Merlots that can stand toe to toe with the best of France, so he is setting out to prove that point with the help of winemaker Heidi Barrett. Amuse Bouche is the main label. Vin Perdu is the second wine of Amuse Bouche, but the blend varies considerably from year to year, which naturally results in wines that are quite different from each other across several vintages. Tel. (707) 251-9300; www.amusebouchewine.com

(a blend of merlot, syrah, petit verdot and the two cabernets): Bright, saturated red-ruby. Slightly reduced aromas of blackberry, minerals, smoke and licorice. Big, rich and chocolatey if somewhat youthfully chunky and unrefined. Plenty of fruit here to support the toothdusting tannins but the finish is a bit aggressive today. Not quite the energy or definition for a 90-point rating.