2017 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone Keyneton Vineyard

Spicy, earthy and meaty with lots of dark fruit. Walnuts and mahogany, too. Full-bodied and juicy with lovely, decadent fruit. So juicy. Gorgeous shiraz. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Hung deli meat, star anise and blackberry adorn the nose of the 2017 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz. Discerning this is akin to peering over the counter at an Italian deli, with meat, cheeses and garlic hanging from the ceiling: it's enveloping and welcome. On the palate, the wine is bright and concentrated, with layers of salted blueberry, licorice and staunch (yet fine) tannins. It has flexibility and pliability, but it also has shape and form—all of it encased in a medium-bodied shell. It is savory and lean above all else, with bacon fat adorning all edges.

Full screwcapped bottle a modest 1,264 g. 100% Shiraz from an east-facing vineyard at around 400 m, lower and warmer than Wheelwright, planted in 1912 by Ronald Angas on deep red-brown clay-loam to clay, first bottled as a single-vineyard wine in 1952! Probably Australia's longest, consecutively-produced, single-vineyard wine. Vines managed with organic and biodynamic practices and picked 19 to 24 April. Vine training has evolved from a hanging canopy to Scott Henry. Anti-frost measures were installed in 2014 because the lower part of the vineyard was vulnerable. Matured in (26% new) oak hogsheads, of which 14% were American rather than French, for 18 months before blending and bottling. pH 3.59, TA 6.4 g/l. Although it's four times as extensive as the Hill of Roses vineyard, there are lots of missing vines so it's certainly not four times as productive. Much richer than The Wheelwright (though made in exactly the same way), and layered, with balsam notes. Lots of savoury herbs on the nose ('very Eden Valley' according to Stephen Henschke) and richly nuanced on the palate with a dry finish. Very subtle oak indeed. Velvety tannins and something saline, plus a hint of spearmint. So clean and refreshing on the end. Very clever winemaking. (JR)