2009 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Also gorgeous, but in a more forward, perfumed style, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is loaded with kirsch, wild strawberry, licorice, Asian spice and wild herb-like aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, sweetly fruited, voluptuous and textured, it’s hard to resist now, but will age gracefully. Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsaut. Bright mid crimson. Archetypal southern Rhône complexity and bright fruit that is both savoury, sweet and aromatic. Some meatiness on the palate and particularly on the finish. Firm, paper-fine tannins. Great length and a fine dry finish. More to come. (JH)