2021 Giant Steps - Pinot Noir Applejack Vineyard

The Applejack Vineyard is planted across the hill, at the same altitude as the Primavera Vineyard on gray clay over mudstone, and picked within a few days of that site. The 2021 Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir included 50% whole bunch in the mix and is a blend of seven different clones. This shows wonderful clarity and poise—it is precise and layered with energy and life. The acid pulses through the phenolic texture in the mouth. It was originally a sparkling vineyard, down the hill from Wombat Creek, situated in an eastern-facing bowl that captures the morning sunlight. Mel Chester (head of winemaking and viticulture) talks about the smell of the tea trees in the vineyard, explaining that "there's always a couple of Wedgetail eagles circling, it's a magic place." The evocative description of the vineyard carries through into the wine, which shows a satisfying, delicious resolution of plump ripe fruit and beautifully resolved tannin. Balance 101.

Full screwcapped bottle 1,578 g. The high-altitude, cool, close-planted Applejack Vineyard is on a dramatic slope with basalt based on underlying volcanic soil and rock. Planted at Gladysdale in 1997 at 220 – 320 m on grey clay loam over black (basalt) volcanic base on east-facing slopes. At least that is the information supplied for the Applejack Chardonnay. I'm flying blind for the Pinot. Pale garnet verging on ruby. Pale rim. A bit more meaty and savoury than the Primavera Vineyard Pinot on the nose. Light and fresh with definite sweetness, as well as the vegy savour, but more refreshing than the Primavera and with a nice lick of light tannins. Delicate texture. It tastes as though it were made with kid gloves. A definite success. (JR)