2005 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau

One of the finest white wines made in Chateauneuf du Pape is Vieux Telegraphe’s, and the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc, which is aged 50% in foudres and 50% in cuve and has a whopping 40% Clairette in the blend, reveals the texture of a terrific white Burgundy with a beautiful perfume of tropical fruits, minerals, and spring flowers. It’s a beauty and probably underrated as a top white wine. It should drink well for 2-4 years, maybe even longer. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons. The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400