1998 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape
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A wine that can flirt with perfection on any given day, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois is rock-star stuff that has overflowing blackcurrants, chocolate dusted meat, graphite and toasted spice-like aromas and flavors. It has off-the-charts richness and depth on the palate, with layers of sweet fruit and tannin, a smoking mid-palate and serious length. This beauty is at full maturity, but well-stored bottles will continue to cruise going forward. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. For this tasting at the domaine (I was also able to taste through this full lineup again, from bottles in the U.S.), we started with the older vintages and worked toward the more current releases. In addition to their Reine des Bois cuvee, the Delorme brothers also release a special cuvee call the Cuvee de la Plume du Peintre. It’s made only in top vintages, and, as of today, it’s only been made in 2003 and 2005. There’s a scant 150 cases of each. Coming from a plot of 80-year-old vines located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, the blend has changed between the two releases, as has the elevage. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258
Punteggi della critica
Robert Parker
Jeb Dunnuck
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Showing even better than a previous bottle, the 1998 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is borderline perfection and can easily stand toe to toe with the ’01. Yielding extraordinary aromas of blackberry and cassis fruit that’s supported by graphite, new leather, licorice, and garrigue, the wine is still youthful and primary on the nose, yet oozes class and elegance. Very full bodied and fantastically concentrated on the palate, with a seamless, profound texture, serious structure, and an incredibly long finish, this awesome wine needs another 3-5 years of bottle age, and should continue to shine for another 2 decades.
This wine went through a long closed period. It was sensational to drink a year or two after bottling, then the wood tannins in the wine’s structure took over. It remained in that state until about two years ago, when it began to slightly open up, and now it seems to be coming into full form. It still has a good 10 years of upside, and potentially 20 more years of drinkability. Still dense ruby/purple, with notes of blueberry liqueur intermixed with graphite, smoke, crushed rock, and white flowers, the wine is full-bodied, beautifully pure, and all evidence of any barrique aging has been completely assimilated into the wine’s fruit and character. This is a beauty that is just now living up to its full potential. Bravo! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 189 Jun 2010