2017 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Telegramme

Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.

Bottled only a month ago, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme offers a more forward style yet has classic red and black fruits, iodine, ground pepper, and garrigue-like aromas and flavors. Fleshy, medium to full-bodied, and nicely textured, with plenty of minerality, it's a terrific introduction into the wines of this estate as well as an outstanding wine. In the Brunier family since 1898, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe lies on the eastern edge of Châteauneuf du Pape and covers 60 hectares of some of the finest terroir out there, the famed la Crau plateau. Looking at the winemaking, the estate has destemmed all their grapes since 1989 and the wines see all native ferments, with no temperature control, and aging all in older foudre. In addition, due to the recent completion of a new state of the art winery, the grapes are now moved only by gravity. While 2016 was an incredible vintage for this estate, they’ve produced brilliant wines in both 2017 and 2018. Lovers of elegant, classical Châteauneuf du Pape, both red and white, can’t wrong with this estate.

Because of coulure in the Grenache, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme has higher-than-usual percentages of Mourvèdre and Syrah in the blend. It's darker fruited, with cola and plum notes, a rich, velvety and slightly coarse feel on the palate and decent length. It should still be consumed over the near term (6-7 years).