1985 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve

(13.4% alcohol; 32% Chabot, 39% State Lane and 29% St. Helena; the fruit was picked at the end of September and beginning of October): Medium red with some amber at the rim. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, truffle, underbrush and flint. Sweet and a bit wild, showing terrific retention of candied raspberry and plum fruit. This concentrated wine is a step up in texture and depth of fruit from the earlier vintages. Strong but integrated acidity gives it definition and lift, with the long finish showing broad, tongue-dusting tannins.

Beringer's 1985 Private Reserve is a superb, fully mature (atypical for the vintage), medium to full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon with an enticing, chocolatey, herb, blackcurrant-scented nose, rich, plump, expansive, sweet, jammy flavors, attractive spice, and a soft, lush finish. It has matured quickly for a 1985, but there is no rush to consume it as it reveals no signs of fatigue. It should hold at its current plateau for 5-10 years.