2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru

Smooth and lively and rich and dense. Tingles, reverberates. Dense and long term. (JR)

As if there were not enough stony minerality in the Pruliers, the 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Cailles lives up to its name, tasting as though its fruit had been macerated on cherry pits and pebbles. Its bitter-sweetness extends to notes of vanilla and chocolate that accent a deep black fruit concentration. Vivid, palpable density and old vines creaminess on the palate lead to a richly fruited but not at all superficially sweet, deeply meaty, and decidedly chalk- and stone-inflected finish of amazing refinement and penetration, indeed of Grand Cru length. If further proof were needed that the Chevillons are in a class by themselves among the major Nuits-St.-Georges landholders, they certainly delivered it this year. Like so many other vintners, they reported backing off on pigeage this year – and heaven knows, the resultant wines don’t lack for concentration. Their Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Bourgogne, and Nuits-St.-Georges Les Perrieres had all just been sulfured and filtered, so Bertrand Chevillon declined to show them. He was as yet noncommittal, however, about when the other wines would be bottled, although this would probably continue through Spring, and be accompanied by the estate’s usual light filtration. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

Bright, full ruby-red. Blueberry, blackberry and minerals on the nose, along with a liqueur-like note of chocolatey surmaturite Fat, sweet and large-scaled, with the superripe character following through on the palate. Finishes with major tannins. A second barrel was equally voluminous and tannic but seemed a bit fresher. Outsized for Cailles, but today I don't find this vineyard's normal mineral and floral delicacy.