2018 Domaine Cecile Tremblay Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes

As is generally the case, Trembaly's 2018 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is the most reserved and introverted wine in the cellar, and it always seems to take longer to show all its cards during élevage. Unwinding in the glass with notes of raspberries, blackberries, potpourri, spices, grilled squab and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and ripely tannic, with lively acids and a long, sapid finish.

From Aux Communes and Les Jacquines. 40% new oak but this sample is probably taken from one of the new ones as the oak is showing a little on the nose, suggests Tremblay. Barrel sample, not yet racked. Intense but cool dark fruit. A dark, perfumed beauty. Elegant yet intense in its restraint. A light note of spice which may be the oak. The wood has flattened the fruit a little on the palate at the moment. The cooler temperature of the sample also brings out the wood. Firmer and a little more chewy on the palate but that lovely dark restraint comes back. Long. Dark, dry and chewy at the moment. Picked at perfect ripeness for depth of fruit and freshness to remain in tandem. (JH)