2003 Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

Enormously endowed with a dense purple color, the 2003 Cote Rotie La Landonne possesses a freakish bouquet of smoked meats, black truffles, blackberry liqueur, raspberries, charcoal, and pain grille. Remarkable concentration, a heady, full-bodied palate, moderately high tannin, low acidity, lofty alcohol (although Gerin told me that rarely did any of his cuvees exceed 14%) and a long finish suggest this 2003 will hit its peak in 2-3 years, and drink well for 15. Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463

Ruby-red color. Oak-laced redcurrant and cherry aromas, with suggestions of tobacco and dark chocolate. Big, chewy and dense; backward today but shows impressive extract. Finishes with firm acidity and strong tannic spine.

(14% alcohol) Bright medium ruby. Exotic, superripe aromas of jammy black cherry, raspberry, chocolate, licorice, leather, brown spices and sweet oak. Fruit-driven, sweet flavors of roasted raspberry and leather, with a strong spice element. Fat and quite oaky. A step up in sweetness and texture from the Champin Le Seigneur but just this side of heavy. Finishes with building, slightly aggressive tannins.