2006 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance

Klein Constantia’s most famous wine, the 2006 Vin de Constance underwent several tries during picking in order to eliminate green fruit, and the 2006 includes 10% raisined berries, some as Aszu and 80% whole bunches. It has a heavenly bouquet with apricot blossom, honeysuckle, elderflower and pear drop that is mesmerizing. The palate is vibrant and animated with notes of raisin, fresh fig and Seville orange marmalade. It has a life-enhancing silver thread of acidity and a long waxy, honeyed finish that lacquers the mouth but is imbued with great freshness and vitality. It is easy to see why this elixir was so coveted 200 years ago. Drink now-2050+. One of South Africa’s most iconic wineries, in the 18th century the sweet wines of Constantia were esteemed in the same way as China covets Lafite-Rothschild. For decades the wines were forgotten, but are now once again, highly coveted. The good news is that a recent bottling does not cost the thousands of dollars of an 18th century bottle. Just days after I visited, the Jooste family sold their shares to Zdenek Bakala and Charles Harman, from the US and UK respectively and I tasted the wines with Adam Mason, who will continue his role as winemaker. Importer: Cape Classics, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-1300

Deep, full orange-gold. Knockout nose offers orange, apricot, cherry, raspberry, mace, nutmeg, honey and flowers. Thick, very sweet and hugely concentrated; like liquid velvet in the mouth but with outstanding energy to its palate-staining orange and apricot fruit. Utterly seamless wine with a palate-staining, lightly saline aftertaste hinting at red berries.