2002 Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses

Disgorged June 2011. From stock bought back by BI. As always, 4.25 g/l dosage. Pale gold and so rich, rounded with yeasty complexity. Charles Philipponnat describes this as a great Chardonnay vintage, with ripe fruit, so much so that some wines have evolved too quickly. This is toasty but definitely not prematurely aged. It opened up to a touch of orange marmalade, honey and ginger. Stunning now but no hurry to drink this. A glamorous sort of wine but the richness is cut through by lovely fresh acidity. Great length. (JH)

Disgorged June 2011. RS 4.5 g/l. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. From producer's UK stock. Dark pinky gold. Very rich and interesting. Bit of a wild card. Philipponat? Really interesting wine (rather than champagne). Tastes of toffee apple. Really interesting with a hint of wild flowers. Long. (JR)

The 2002 Clos des Goisses dazzles from start to finish. A huge, tropical Goisses, the 2002 pulses with exotic, tropical fruit wedded to a real sense of textural vinosity. Honey, almonds and yellow stone fruits are some of the many notes that blossom in the glass. The 2002 is just entering the very early part of its plateau of maturity, but it will continue to develop further nuance over the next 20-30 years. The level of complexity and overall sumptuousness make the 2002 nearly impossible to resist today. Disgorged November 2011.