2008 Elio Altare Barolo Brunate

The 2008 Barolo Brunate emerges from the glass with a vivid, kaleidoscopic bouquet redolent of pine, sage, spices, new leather and licorice. There is gorgeous detail and nuance in the glass. The 2008 is a refined Brunate that shows the pedigree of this great site in its intensity. The tannins are a little firm, but that is quite typical of Brunate. I especially like the way the wine fleshes out on the finish, which also is a great sign of things to come. The complexity and nuance are things of sheer beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. This is a stellar set of wines from Elio Altare. The 2008 Nebbioli were brought in between October 7 and 10, which is a bit late for this estate. The 2008s have a Pinot-like sweetness that is incredibly appealing. Experiments with a fully destemmed Barolo continue. It will be interesting to see how those wines develop over the coming years, but so far the results are intriguing, to say the least. The biggest piece of news, however, is a new lease on a parcel of Cannubi, of which there are now five barrels resting in the cellar with vintage 2011. The new addition will console Altare fans over the loss of the Barolo Brunate, which will no longer be made, as Altare lost access to that fruit after the 2011 harvest. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel.(415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

Good full red. Shy but very pure nose hints at dried flowers, brown spices and menthol; classic Brunate. Then tight and backward in the mouth, with strong acidity keeping the wine's flavors in the background today. Less fleshy than the Arborina. Finishes with chewy tannins and delicate lingering perfume.