2014 Philipponnat Extra Brut Cuvee 1522*

Disgorged in March 2021 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, Philipponnat's 2014 Extra-Brut Grand Cru Cuvée 1522 exhibits aromas of crisp yellow apples, stone fruit, buttery pastry and citrus oil. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly vinous, with a layered core of fruit, bright girdling acids and a seamless profile, it's beautifully balanced and should age with considerable grace. As I've written before, this cuvée derives its name from the year in which the Philipponnat family settled in Ay, and it's intended to foreground the virtues of the wines of that village.

Blend of grands crus of which their own Aÿ vineyard is predominant. 81% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay with about 30% fermented in oak barrels. Disgorged March 2021, dosage 4.5 g/l. Discreet nose. And intriguingly little visible bead but a great deal of mousse on the palate. Still very tight. Lots of ripe fruit on the front palate and then tension draws it to a decisive close on the finish. This wine is propelled by tension. It's not quite ready yet but should provide delightful drinking later in 2021. (JR)