2008 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Montrachet Grand Cru

(two barrels made, from vines on the Chassagne side) Pale yellow. Musky apple, minerals and clove on the subdued but pure nose. Big, rich and chewy, with lovely lemony lift to the mineral, vanilla and spice flavors. A very suave, fat wine that really echoes in the mouth. A tactile sensation of minerality carries the finish and gives it verve, but there's nothing hard about this Montrachet. In fact, Fontaine is surprised it's so presentable today. "Usually it's not so good early," he notes.