2015 Groebe Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grande Reserve Auction

Nowadays almost every VDP grower offers one special edition of a dry Riesling, which puts the VDP Grosses Gewächs category ad absurdum . Fritz Groebe does make a Kirchspiel Grosses Gewächs, but it will possibly struggle to keep up with the sophisticated expression of the Grande Réserve, which is only released after five years’ bottle-aging. Very fine fumy and waxy aromas reflect maturity on the nose, the palate still bristles with grapefruit, lime and lemon and exhilarating acidity, flinty and salty notes add complexity. Quite full bodied nevertheless. The question whether it’s trocken according to the rules is really irrelevant. (MS)