2008 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault

It's been two years since I tasted my last bottle, and Jean-François Coche's 2008 Meursault Village is only getting better, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp green pear, citrus oil, sesame, hazelnuts and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, it's tensile and concentrated, with racy acids, terrific mid-palate volume and a long, penetrating finish.

Deep straw. More reticent nose than the Lafon. Less giving, much more sinewy and tight. Even a bit austere. Very much in reserve. Not yet open. Masses of acidity. Retained in the wine over an hour. (JR)

Cork quite different from that stoppering the 2007 (marked MS on the top and with cursive lettering on the side for J F Coche-Dury). Label has 'C & R Coche' under Domaine Coche-Dury – presumably Charline and Raphaël. Toasty and quite rich on the nose with mild struck-match character and masses of acidity on the palate. Vivacious and still very youthful with some lemon cough-pastille character. Dry but impressively long finish. Crystalline. (JR)