2010 G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi

With fruit from the Barolo township, the 2010 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi offers a classic portrait of the Nebbiolo grape with bright berry notes backed by savory tones of balsam herb, dried sage and mint. There-s a distant touch of exotic spice as well, maybe cumin or curry, that adds a somewhat unexpected extra layer of complexity to the wine-s already busy personality. Its overall elegance is already evident at this young stage in its evolution. Drink: 2016-2028. Based in Verduno, Comm. G.B. Burlotto is named after its founder Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto. This burly man was one of the original Barolo protagonists and a first proponent of the noninterventionist winemaking style that is so celebrated today. Various American importers, including: The Rare Wine Co., www.rarewineco.com; Bacchanal Wine Import, www.bacchanalwines.com; Vineyard Road, www.vineyardroad.net; Elite Wines, www.elitewines.net

Pure and fruity on the nose with sliced-strawberry and floral character. Full to medium body with pretty fruit, firm tannins and a fresh acidity. Lots of tar at the finish.

The 2010 Barolo Cannubi is dense and compact at this stage, but then the sweet Cannubi tannins kick in. Sweet red berries, crushed flowers, mint and sweet spices wrap around the palate in a generous, textured wine endowed with tons of depth and class. This is a fairly powerful rendering of Cannubi. It will be interesting to see if the wine acquires finesse in bottle, or if it will always be a bit of a brute. (AG)