2008 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc

(the 30th anniversary for this cru, which was bottled on its own beginning in 1978; Scavino will offer just over 200 cases, plus a few magnums; bottled with the estate's old gold label): Good deep, youthful red. Deep, pure, almost shockingly primary aromas of black cherry and espresso. At once silky and vinous, saturating the entire palate under a wave of red fruits and smoky minerality. Wonderfully plush and sweet but powerful too, finishing with noble tannins and sexy building length. Impeccable balance gives this wine an almost magical light touch. This slowly evolving wine should gain in complexity for two decades or more. A small quantity of grapes were fermented in a special vertical tank; the fermentation lasted a week and Scavino used a submerged cap for another four or five days of maceration.

Backward and sweetly perfumed. And showing more acidity than the Cannubi or the Monvigliero from the same vintage. Makes it much more animating. Very backward, though and tannins demand more time. (WS)

Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with orange rim. Very closed. Lots of concentration on the palate. Good balance too. (WS)