2017 Margherita Otto Barolo

The 2017 Barolo is a very pretty wine. Perfumed aromatics, distinctly red-toned fruit and mid-weight structure are the signatures. Readers will find a gracious, perfumed Barolo that is more finesse than power. There is plenty of tannin, so a few years in the cellar are warranted. Moreover, the 2017 does not show some of the small flaws of the 2016, although it is naturally the product of a less favorable growing season. This is a terrific showing.

'Normally the various plots are co-fermented, but in 2017 the plots in Serralunga d'Alba and Castiglione Falletto were harvested almost two weeks earlier than the plot in Monforte d'Alba. Once the Monforte batch had gone through fermentation the two were blended. Total skin contact around 41 days. After racking it goes into a large Mittelberg cask of Alsacian oak, which is neutral because it is practically untoasted. What I like about Mittelberg is how slowly they do the bending, because if you need to do it quickly you need heat which then caramelises the barrel and imparting a big oak flavour to the wine.' Aged for 33 months in large oak cask. Just mid ruby. Brooding nose of cherry with a sweet, fragrant layer of red fruit on top and with peppery notes and a hint of minty garden herbs and stones. Sappy, juicy red fruit with a layer of very fine, chewy tannins. Strikes an amazing balance. Sensational tannin management in this vintage. Closes up on the finish, which is an indication for the long life it has ahead of it. (WS)