2007 Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses

Disgorged in October 2023 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, Philipponnat’s 2007 Clos des Goisses—comprising 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay—is a commendable effort, though if one were inclined to split hairs, it slightly pales in comparison when tasted alongside the more harmonious 2008 and 2009 vintages. The nose opens with aromas of honeysuckle, golden apple, pastry and warm spices, with a subtle hint of eucalyptus leaf and a faint exotic nuance, suggestive of the botrytis-influenced growing season. On the palate, it is full-bodied and incisive, revealing a generous core of fruit supported by bracing acidity. The wine concludes with a long, citrus-inflected finish.

Magnum disgorged in 2017. Very intense nose and creamy texture. Really quite rich with a pale coppery tinge. No obvious dosage and extremely long. Charles Philipponnat emphasised how ripe grapes tend to be in this sun trap of a vineyard that is 'very good in lesser vintages', adding, 'we're always trying to put more pixels in the picture'. A strong statement of a wine! (JR)

Deep golden straw colour. Real attack on the nose. Lots of impact and tightly laced. Impressive concentration. Not dry! Some honey and apple here. A good bottle … and still quite a way to go. (JR)