2009 G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi

Moving over to the Barolo township, the 2009 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi opens with a dark, saturated appearance (with subtle hints of veiled cloudiness) and deep aromas of ripe cherry, plum, prune, red rose, rosemary and dried sage. This vineyard cru is know for the elegance of its fruit, but the warm 2009 conditions, in this case, have taken the wine to a different, less accountable direction. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. Steeped in history and tradition, this is one of the most enjoyable wineries to visit in the township of Verduno. A cellar tour takes you through the brick-vaulted cellars, the frescoed chapel (now a tasting room), a gallery of historic black-and-white photographs (their wines were sent to the North Pole in a 1899 expedition) and you can admire the painted facade of the main building that proudly displays the colorful images of past wine awards and medals. The property is a museum to family legacy in this beautiful corner of the Langhe. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Smoke, incense and tobacco are some of the many nuances that emerge from the 2009 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi. One of the very best 2009s from this historic site, Burlotto's Cannubi impresses for its depth, richness and sheer power. The sensuality typical of Cannubi is given extra dimensions of pure volume that are unusual yet hugely appealing. With time in the glass the wine just keeps getting better, suggesting it has plenty more to give. Vibrant yet intense and impeccably polished, the 2009 Cannubi will provide readers with compelling drinking over the next two-plus decades.