2011 Morlet Family Chardonnay Coup de Coeur
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Made from a selection of the best lots in the cellar, the 2011 Chardonnay Coup de Coeur is a rich, full-bodied white made from an Old Wente clone. Even richer, fuller and more prodigious than the Ma Princesse, it should age easily for 5-7 years as well. This is one of the up-and-coming superstar producers in Northern California. Owned by Luc Morlet, who comes from a French family that has long been making wines in Champagne, and who cut his Napa Valley teeth first for Newton and later Peter Michael. His American wife, Jodie, assists Luc Morlet, who still does consulting work at Peter Michael, although it is brother Nick who runs the show at Peter Michael from a winemaking perspective. The debut vintage for the Morlet Family Vineyards was 2006, and they have hardly missed a beat since then in turning out sumptuous Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Bordeaux-based blends, smaller proportions of a killer Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend, and a Cote Rotie-like Syrah. All of the following wines represent striking examples or Morlet-s talents. As for the 2012 Chardonnays, all will be bottled over the next four or five months. It is another great vintage for Morlet. All the wines come from the same sources, are 100% Chardonnay, see full malolactic fermentation, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fermentations are all done by indigenous yeasts and the wines are aged sur lie with lots of lees stirring. The 2012s are slightly more intense. The Pinot Noirs come from a vineyard on the second ridge of the Sonoma Coast appellation, all planted between 1,000 to 1,250 feet with a field selection brought in from one of the great grand cru vineyards in Vosne-Romanee. The 2011 production ranged from 150 cases of the Joli Coeur to nearly 200 cases each of the Coteaux Nobles and En Famille. Readers should not forget about the Morlet Family Vineyards- remarkable Syrah, which is a dead-ringer for a top-notch Cote Rotie given its floral character. I was sure some Viognier was included in the blend, but that-s not the case. The wines from this small boutique winery are not to be missed. Tel. (707) 967-8690
Punteggi della critica
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Apricot jam, white flowers and orange blossoms are some of the many notes that flow from the 2011 Chardonnay Coup de Coeur. There is lovely focus and energy here. Always the Coup de Coeur is a bit an in between wine that combines both textural depth and focus of the Ma Douce and Ma Princess. Today, the 2011 comes across as a bit raw and heavy. It will be interesting to see where things go over the next year.
(from a selection of Morlet's best barrels): Good full yellow. Subtle, laid-back nose hints at lemon peel, coconut and brown spices. Then seamless, deep and vibrant, with noteworthy density to the peach and nutmeg flavors complicated by touches of honey and coconut. Wonderfully silky, suave chardonnay with real flavor intensity and thrust. Finishes quite dry, with lingering notes of pineapple and creme brulee. This will need time to absorb some of its coconut and vanilla oak element. An exciting chardonnay in the making. Luc Morlet noted that the fermentations in 2011 were "slow but full," and that the malos finished by March. He picks in 30-pound lugs and brings in the fruit in refrigerated trucks. There's no bruising of the fruit or skin contact and he also presses very slowly. He also told me that it's critical to find the right coopers, as he's very aware of oak tannins in his wines, including the chardonnays, and wants to minimize phenolics.