2007 Peter Michael Chardonnay Belle Cote

Light, hazy yellow. Energetic nose evokes Meyer lemon, tangerine, anise and smoky lees. Fleshy, deeply concentrated citrus and melon flavors are complicated by brown butter and honeysuckle nuances. Becomes stonier with air and finishes with excellent clarity and sweet persistence. Plenty of power here, but this wine's precision was what struck me.

The full-bodied, rich, intensely flavored 2007 Chardonnay Belle Cote offers abundant tropical fruit, lychee nut, apricot, spice box, caramelized peach, and wet stone characteristics intertwined with a smoky almond-like note. ||Brothers Nicolas and Luc Morlet (the former the winemaker and the latter a consultant) told me that 2008 was one of the smallest crops they have encountered, largely because of the late spring frosts, and windy conditions during flowering. Yields were low, but the quality was among the highest they have ever seen for Chardonnay, with a level of concentration reminiscent of the 2002s. As I indicated in issue #180, Peter Michael’s 2007 Chardonnays are spectacular. Production is about 30% higher per cuvee than in 2008, and these are exquisite efforts with lots of uplift, minerality, zesty aromatics, and refreshing acids. This year I should have a chance to taste the estate plantings from the huge investments Sir Peter Michael has made in Pinot Noir vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. In the meantime, here are some interesting efforts from sites where they contract for fruit.||Tel. (707) 942-3200; Fax (707) 942-0209 Wine Advocate.February, 2010