2016 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Genestra

Of these new Baroli from Conterno Fantino, the 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra shows the most underlying power, linearity and determination. While the other wines are a little softer and richer, especially on the mid-palate, this wine is all muscle and brawn. With its 15% alcohol content, its abundant bouquet and tight structural presentation, you should count on an extra long drinking window. Wait to pull the cork after the 10-year mark. At this young stage, the bouquet presents layered aromas of red fruit, tar, spice, ferrous earth and candied orange peel. There are hints of mint, eucalyptus and campfire ash. All said and done, this is a 11,700-bottle release of majesty and beauty that will make a proud and important protagonist of any collector's cellar.

Monforte d'Alba. Tasted blind. Lustrous mid to deep ruby. Deep, balsamic fruit nose with a peppery note, but not showing it all right now. Youthful, ripe fruit with acidity that becomes a little racy on the finish. Compact, long and still a little embryonic and with finely chiselled yet powerful tannins. Gorgeous length. (WS)

Monforte d'Alba. Tasted blind. Lustrous mid to deep ruby. Deep, balsamic fruit nose with a peppery note, but not showing it all right now. Youthful, ripe fruit with acidity that becomes a little racy on the finish. Compact, long and still a little embryonic and with finely chiselled yet powerful tannins. Gorgeous length. (WS)