2004 Château Figeac

Although it was my favorite decade for this Saint-Émilion, the 2004 Figeac has always quietly impressed with its quality. This ex-château bottle, opened for my wedding anniversary, shows beautifully at 15 years old. Still deep in color with modest bricking on the rim, it has a seductive bouquet of black fruit, mulberry, graphite and fireside hearth. Decanting for three hours clearly benefits the aromatics, which leap in intensity with aeration. The palate is classic Figeac, equidistant between Left and Right Bank in style, touches of dark chocolate and clove infusing the dark berry fruit. The tannins have softened since I last tasted this wine, rendering it perfectly drinkable now, although it will easily give another 15 years of pleasure. Tasted at home.

Tasted at the property, the 2004 Figeac has a very dark color for the vintage (so much so, if blind I might not guess it as a Bordeaux!). The nose is tightly wound with dense black fruit. It conveys the feeling of being a little "pushed," trying to transcend the limitations of the vintage and forsaking elegance and finesse. It feels a little monochromatic. The palate is better: quite weighty in the mouth with blackberry, raspberry coulis and a splash of soy, segueing into more tobacco-like notes towards the finish that offers plenty of freshness. This is a stout and sturdy Figeac, quite complex with an almost English ale-like sweetness noted on the finish. Two beverages for the price of one! Tasted June 2016.