2005 Nicolas Joly Savennières Clos de la Bergerie

A healthy green-gold color, the 2005 Savennieres – Roche-aux-Moines Clos de la Bergerie smells fascinatingly and piquantly of raw almond, over-ripe apples, fading lilies, white pepper and chalk dust. A faintly spirituous note adds to its aromatic pungency. Full and faintly oily on the palate but with an ample measure of juiciness and acidity, its problems set in as you begin to feel your gums numb and heat rise from the back of your palate. An aura of over-ripe fruit and bitter almond persists in the finish – fortunately along with a continued sense of fresh fruit acids – and there are undeniably interesting nutty, chalky notes. But the alcohol has by now taken the edge off of my interest. Whatever its level (the label states “14.5%”) it is more than this wine can handle. (Incidentally, I rated the 2005 “Clos Sacres” a point higher.) Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000