2009 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Spring Mountain

Bright ruby-red. Primary dark berries, tart cherry, sloe plum, wild herbs and flowers on the nose, plus a whiff of leather. Densely packed but not at all sweet; in fact, a bit youthfully tight and compressed, with its dark fruit and menthol flavors showing a Cheracol-like medicinal character. Sharply focused but unforthcoming today, this Cabernet needs more time in bottle to develop pliancy. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins. Seven years ago I predicted that this wine needed another six or seven years of cellaring; that may still be the case today.

Good medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, meat, mocha and cedar, with a whiff of pepper (another sample that had been open for 72 hours took on a somewhat darker fruit character). A very smooth and suave midweight, with ripe acidity giving definition and energy to the mid-palate. Not a particularly fleshy style of 2009 but wonderfully balanced wine, with a firmness from the addition of the press wine. The long finish features big but supple tannins. This wine may well merit a higher rating with six or seven years of bottle aging.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is stunningly beautiful and seductive in its red fruit, mint and tobacco. This is a surprisingly accessible vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Today it looks like an excellent choice for readers who want to explore the wines of this iconic producer – as long as it doesn't close down in bottle. Togni's 2009 is notable for its exceptional elegance, finesse and pedigree. There is plenty of Spring Mountain structure, but today the 2009 is disarmingly sexy and radiant for such a young wine.