2009 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Aux Boudots presents a Vosne-like expression of dark cherries, graphite, menthol and sweet spices. This is another especially vibrant, focused 2009 that will benefit from another few years in bottle. Truth is, it is pretty terrific right now. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Etienne Grivot’s 2009s were some of the most exciting wines I tasted on my most recent trip to Burgundy. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Good full medium red. Very ripe, distinctly dark aromas of black cherry, blackberry and violet. Sweet, seamless and concentrated, with more of a fruit compote character than the Roncieres is displaying. No shortage of energy here but a bit easy today for premier cru. The fine dusting of tannins and obvious sweetness will give this significant immediate appeal. Grivot believes he picked this wine two days too late, adding that "the secret of 2009 was not to harvest too late." The Roncieres, he added, is more complex even if it needs time.

Lots of fresh fruit but a nice savoury edge to the aroma. Creamy blueberry soft fruit but there’s enough energy to lift it beyond sweetness. Smooth, supple and long. (JH)