2004 Familie Nigl Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben

As usual here, the 2004 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben comes from the Weinzierlberg in Krems, although that vineyard name does not appear on the label. Scrupulous selection for healthy fruit, Nigl opines, permitted him overnight skin contact which in turn enhanced the intensity of flavors and the medium to full body of the resultant wine. Black currant, huckleberry and green bean aromas lead to a creamy, rich palate of black fruits and herbs and a solid, rather low-toned finish. But there is not the diversity of flavors or the expansiveness I would expect, and I wonder whether this is still suffering from the bottling. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300