2016 Donnhoff Hollenpfad

Prominent peach kernel piquancy, peat-like smokiness and an aura of quarry dust combine for a sense of austerity on the nose, which a bit of oiliness helps assuage on the palate. This bottling conveys an overt sense of high extract but it’s not muscle-bound, and its gripping finish boasts admirable fresh peach juiciness and transparency to smoky-stony nuances as well as invigorating bites of mustard seed and black pepper. It can’t hurt to give this a bit more time, though I confess that although 2016 represents the sixth installment of Dönnhoff’s Roxheimer Riesling, I have not yet had an opportunity to witness how it evolves in bottle. (For more about this fascinating and historically renowned sandstone site, consult my note on the Dönnhoff 2014.)

The Höllenpfad punches above its Erste Lage weight to perform like a Grosses Gewächs. An orchestra of aromas relies on the harmony of its constituents rather than brilliant solo efforts to delight the sensory audience. Some may cherish the pure mineral expression, others the delightfully fresh fruit, rich extract could be mentioned as another contender, but at the end of the day they all integrate into a very special dry premier cru. (MS)