2011 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Petite Chapelle

Looking at the two Hermitage releases, the 2011 La Petite Chapelle (100% Syrah aged 15 months in oak) is an approachable, seamless and sexy effort that gives up a perfumed bouquet of black raspberry, cassis, creamy licorice and assorted chocolaty nuances. Medium to full-bodied, with loads of fruit and texture, this total charmer will continue to impress for a decade or more. Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rhône appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one Côte Rôtie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Opaque purple. Ripe blackberry and cherry compote on the nose. Lush, creamy and sweet, offering deep dark berry preserve flavors and a gentle note of cola. Becomes spicier with air and picks up a sexy floral nuance. Showing very good energy right now, with strong finishing punch and a lingering floral note.