2006 Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay Clos des 60 Ouvrees 1er Cru

Fresh ginger and white pepper pungency accent the concentration of ripe dark cherry and purple plum of Landanger's 2006 Volnay Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrees. There is a formidable sense of sheer density here, with well tucked-in tannins and an invigorating sense of energy. This relatively austere but palate-staining rendition of a Pousse d'Or monopole – which taps some of the estate's oldest vines – finishes with chalk, cherry pit, and incisive spice. I would plan to wait several years before reconnecting with this lean, typically long-distance runner, and anticipate its being well worth following for a dozen or more years. Patrick Landanger reports having fermented longer and worked harder to extract flavor from his 2006 crop, and while the results are undeniably concentrated, on the occasion of my tasting, several suffered a bit from opacity and tannic severity. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93