NV Sugrue ZODO

Full bottle 1,647 g. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir planted on chalk in 2006. Blend of 2020, 2021 and 2023 aged in old oak. Seems to have lost its ‘#’ on the label. Very pale amber. The oak is quite obvious but by no means unpleasant. Lots of interest here. Is this a riposte to Selosse? Bone dry but quite a journey to get there. A real geek's wine! I wouldn't serve it to a newcomer to wine. (JR)

60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. 80% of the fruit is from the Mount Harry vineyard in East Sussex, planted in May 2006 on clay loam over chalk. The other 20% is from the Storrington Priory vineyard in West Sussex planted at the same time on greensand. Wines from 2014, 2011 and 2009. 50% fermented in old 500-litre burgundy barrels without malo and 50% in tank with malo. Tasted blind. Pale bronze. Smells of apple sauce. Then lots of fruit and exuberance on the palate. Charming and easy with good balance even if not massive complexity. A real please-all (so the fruit must be pretty damn fine to be so charming without any dosage!). (JR)

I tasted two bottlings of the NV Zero Dosage The Trouble With Dreams ZODO. The first was a March 2020 prototype disgorgement that Dermot Sugrue expressed dissatisfaction with, though I thought it was pretty good. The second, tasted in January 2021, had just been disgorged and was admittedly even better. It is based on the 2014 vintage and contains reserve wine from 2009 and 2011, so Dermot Sugrue classes it as a multi-vintage blend with zero dosage. Due for release in spring 2021, this is just a killer English sparkling wine that is one of the most Champagne-like in style. It has a very intense, delineated bouquet of Granny Smith apple, crushed stone and sea cave aromas. The palate is exquisitely balanced with fine weight and density, yet paradoxically seems nimble and light on its feet. Razor-sharp acidity and just a light twist of sour lemon on the finish. This is outstanding.