2015 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port

The 2015 Vintage Port is part of our mini-vertical this issue. As compared to its immediate siblings in this mini-vertical, this is a big step up on the 2014. Really—it isn't far off the 2016, either. Pretty much every component is better here than on the 2014, and by a wide margin. The fruit is better here, and the concentration is better; so, too, is the structure. The texture is caressing while the acidity strafes the fruit and mingles nicely with the ripe (relatively ripe, that is) tannins. It is pure, rich, sexy and still balanced, with an invigorating finish. It's delicious too, its lively fruit and good structure promising a long life ahead. This has blossomed since I first saw it for sure. You can think about drinking this in a decade, more or less, but keep it longer for best results, or give it a few hours in a decanter.

Dense, compressed nose that nonetheless has coffee bean, smoke, black cherry and spice. Glides across the palate – so silken and articulate! Long, intense fruit – yet without heaviness. If the best books are unputdownable, then this is unspitoutable. Sheer pleasure – but it needs time to decompress and fulfil its potential complexity. (RH)

The 2015 Vintage Port is the normal blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, all from the estate, that spent 18 months in barrel. This full-bodied, rich, opulent effort offers textbook plum and raisined fruits with loads of candied black olives, orange rind, and spice. Despite its richness and depth, it’s surprisingly fresh and lively, with integrated acidity, sensational purity of fruit, and a brilliant sense of elegance. It needs a decade of cellaring and will keep for 3-4 more decades.