2002 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve***

This iconic winery in Oakville has meant so much to not only me, but wine lovers throughout the United States. However, Robert Mondavi’s 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is somewhat of a disappointment. Made from a final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, it is a somewhat restrained, mid-weight effort that finishes narrowly and abruptly on the palate. I even asked the Napa Valley Vintners’ Association (where my tastings were being held) to open a second bottle, and it was identical to the first. Red fruits, earth, incense, black currants and a hint of mint were all present, and while this cuvee is very good, it is not at the level of achievement one expects of this great brand and winery. Fully mature, yet capable of lasting another 10-15 years, this wine would benefit from more stuffing, complexity and gravitas. Tel. (888) 766-6328

Looks very mature. Smells very evolved with some lively complexity and relatively gentle composition. Some fine tannins and dustiness well in retreat. Very ripe fruit but – just – enough acidity. Not the perfect follow through; it’s a little lacking juice on the finish. The fruit fell away in the glass. Blind guess: mountain. Revealed location: valley. (JR)

(80% from To Kalon fruit) Full medium ruby. Vibrant, highly aromatic nose combines blackberry, violet and licorice. Juicy, lively and light on its feet, with cool, lifted flavors of blackberry, violet, mint and exotic spices. Today, this gives virtually no hint of dehydrated fruit. Offers terrific verve for the vintage, but the substantial ripe tannins call for at least five or six years of additional cellaring.