2010 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin

Another perfect wine from this family is the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin, an incredibly concentrated, powerful, backward wine that’s just now starting to shed its baby fat and tannins. Massive notes of black and blue fruits, black truffle, ground pepper, and a beautiful sense of minerality all flow to a full-bodied, deep, awesome wine that has a huge mid-palate, riveting purity of fruit, and a finish that won’t quit. Incredibly classic in style and reminding me of a hypothetical mix of the 1989 and 1990, it can be drunk with incredible pleasure over the coming 30 years or more.

Tight, dense and backward, the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage À Jacques Perrin was one of the least approachable wines in the lineup, yet certainly has incredible potential. Offering lots of liquid minerality, crushed rock, blueberry, truffle and cassis, it’s massive and concentrated on the palate, with building tannin, good acidity and a firm, focused feel that begs for cellaring. Hide these in the cellar for another decade.

(based on 70% mourvedre, with roughly 10% each of syrah, grenache and counoise): Bright ruby. A drop-dead, room-filling bouquet evokes black raspberry liqueur, incense, anise and lavender, with smoke and herb overtones. Sappy and penetrating, offering deeply pitched but lively dark berry and cherry flavors and an exotic touch of candied flowers. Fine-grained tannins come up with air and give grip to an endless, fruit- and mineral-dominated finish. This remarkable wine would be at the top of my Chateauneuf to-buy list this vintage if I had the resources to swim in such waters.