2005 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Good deep ruby-red. Wild aromas of cassis, game, leather and licorice, plus a whiff of band-aid. The distinct wildness carries through on the palate, where the dark berry and game flavors are framed by juicy acidity. This is pretty sauvage, and the finish is a bit edgy with acids and tannins.

The winery continues to turn out a strong Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in the Calistoga area. This is a big production item (10,000 cases), and tends to be a good value for a high-class Napa Cabernet. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (22,000 cases) is a beauty. Savory black currant fruit notes intermixed with some licorice, underbrush, and spice jump from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, smoothly textured, beautifully elegant wine meant to be served and drunk in its first 10-12 years of life. This clearly has the fingerprints of Chateau Montelena’s Bo Barrett and his father Jim Barrett, but at a much lower price point, and for that reason seems an ideal steakhouse Cabernet that gives both value and pleasure. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

Good red-ruby. Perfumed, lively aromas of cassis, violet and minerals. Distinctly suave, sweet and fine-grained for this bottling, but still tight and penetrating, with lovely floral lift in a Medoc cabernet way. Finishes with notes of leather and licorice. This promises to be finer than the '04. The crop level here is always between 3 and 4.5 tons per acre, said Bo Barrett, and the 2005 was right at the high end of the range.