1995 Dom Pérignon

Just disgorged, no dosage. Just had the rather fat and fleshy P2 and this will eventually be a P3. But there’s a worrying lack of fruit and a dry finish. Is this bottle spoilt by TCA? (JR)

Lively bead. Rich, bumptious and satisfying – very different from the 1996 stereotype of austere and crisp. See this early comparison of the two vintages , and this account of the renaming of these second release Dom Ps . (JR)

Disgorged 2008. Stunning nose, and absolutely electric palate. So serious, so sophisticated – up there with the best. Brioche, smoke, apple, spice – take your pick. This is exemplary mature champagne, and the strength of the vintage shows. (RH)