2004 Domaine René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde

In stark contrast to the ’05, the 2004 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde was open, evolved and ready to go. Loaded with garrigue, saddle leather, spice, and sweet raspberry and cassis-like fruit, it’s a wine I’d drink over the coming decade while the fruit is still lively.

Bright red. Explosive, intensely perfumed bouquet encompasses smoky red and dark berries, cherry, fresh and dried flowers and an intriguing minerality. Deep in concentrated blackberry and raspberry preserve flavors but also boasts superb freshness and clarity. The bright, tangy finish doesn't want to quit, throwing off notes of floral pastille, graphite, tobacco and sweet red and dark berries. The wine's tannins are overwhelmed by sweet fruit.

Deep ruby color. Hugely aromatic nose combines bright cherry, smoked meat, licorice, violet and rose oil. This is almost oily in texture but is surprising for its elegance and mineral tones, with flavors of ripe plum, cherry preserve, roasted coffee and licorice pastille. Finishes with fine-grained tannins, powerful notes of smoky bacon and blackberry and solid grip.