2004 Domaine René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

The terroir-driven, muscular, dark, brooding 2004 Cote Rotie La Landonne reveals plenty of meat, tannin, smoke, and tart acids, a dark ruby/purple-tinged color, and a firm, structured mouthfeel. Structuralists will probably rate it considerably higher, but I remain concerned about the acids and tannin dominating the fruit as it evolves. It should last for 10-12 years. P.S. The least expensive wine Rostaing makes, which comes from the Coteaux du Languedoc, is the 2004 Puech Chaude. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Grenache, aged 50% in tank and 50% and barrel, it is a beauty and ideal for drinking in its first 3-4 years of life. 2004 is a classic vintage for Rostaing, who succeeded in a tough year in the Northern Rhone by performing severe crop-thinning measures during the growing season. Nevertheless, these wines are dwarfed by his freakishly rich 2003s and his beautiful 2005s, which he claims are “the best vintage I’ve made.” Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Medium red. Intense, spicy red fruit aromas-especially raspberry-complicated by dried flowers and pungent herbs. Silky and suave, with sweet red berry flavors and the lightest hint of mocha. The youthfully taut, fresh finish shows a persistent raspberry tone.

(from vines averaging 35 years of age) Dark red color. Subdued nose hints at cherry, red plum and fresh flowers, with a white pepper accent Almost Burgundian in weight and texture, with fine, precise cherry and currant fruit flavors tinged by oak spice. Finishes on a crisp note of minerals.