2008 Pio Cesare Barolo

Sweet rosemary, licorice and red berries waft from the glass in Pio Cesare’s 2008 Barolo. This is a fairly approachable vintage for the estate’s Barolo. Firm, young Nebbiolo tannins frame the long finish. The aromas and flavors are somewhat forward, and I don’t see enough depth in the fruit to support long-term drinking, but the 2008 should provide plenty of enjoyment on the near and medium term. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2020. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Grapes sourced from Serralunga d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, Castiglione Falletto, Novello. Mid ruby with orange rim. Sweetly perfumed dried fruit. Similar sweet dried-fruit notes on an already accessible palate underlined by stalky tannin. Uncomplicated and appealing but not really for the long haul. (WS)

Moderately saturated medium red. Red cherry, marzipan, minerals and underbrush on the nose; perfumed but a bit less expressive at this point than the 2008 Barbaresco classico. Bigger on the palate too but quite backward at present, and a bit dominated by its spine. Finishes with dusty, serious tannins, a savory chewy quality, and lingering notes of red cherry and camphor. Like the Barbaresco, this displays the energy of the vintage's better examples.