2010 Pio Cesare Barolo

Pio Cesare's 2010 Barolo is terrific. Dark red cherries, plums, lavender, smoke and savory herbs open up in the glass, followed by hints of orange peel and white pepper that add both lift and a hugely appealing element of exoticism. The firm, incisive tannins are going to need a few years to settle down. There is a lot to like in this classic, old-school leaning Barolo. The 2010 was made from less well-exposed parcels in Ornato, along with parcels in Collareto and Briccolina, both of which are in the same general area of Serralunga, plus dollops of fruit from La Morra and Grinzane Cavour, virtually all of it estate fruit.

The 2010 Barolo is a great fall back wine for those who want to know the flavor profile of a classic, well-made Barolo. This is a textbook wine, especially in the exceptional 2010 vintage. Black fruit and prune is folded together with delicate tones of cigar ash, crushed mineral, licorice, white truffle and dried raspberry. The tannins are firm, but polished and the wine leaves a lasting imprint of dark fruit and cola on the elegant finish. Drink: 2016-2028. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines; www.mmdusa.net

Healthy mid ruby with orange tinges. Oatmeal and sweet cherry and that in abundance. Lots of intense fruit aromas on the palate framed by a polished tannic structure. Easy to like and already approachable. (WS)