2009 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato

Tar, smoke, licorice and iron all inform Pio Cesare's 2009 Barolo Ornato, a wine loaded with tons of pure Serralunga power. Rich and broad on the palate, the 2009 boasts striking depth and persistence. The warm growing season notwithstanding, the 2009 comes across as more classic than recent vintages, with less French oak influence.

Magnum. Sweet and very fruity with amazing drinkability already! Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare says it will close down. Bottled March 2013. Clean, dry finish. Great balance. Something reminiscent of a fortified wine about this. Apparently 55% of the wine was aged in barriques (one-, two-, and three-year-old). They certainly seem to have conferred early charm on this wine. (JR)

The 2009 Barolo Ornato, on the other hand, shows a “modern” approach with softer fruit layers and thicker, velvety texture. The fact that the fruit is sourced in the Serralunga d’Alba township (known for more opulent wines) underlines the wine’s open and overt personality. Given the vintage, I’d apply a shorter drinking window to this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Pio Cesare is what I call a “lighthouse” winery. Steadfast and standing tall among the rest, it floods the landscape with inspiration and light for a slew of smaller, boutique wineries looking to find their way. Among the most historic brands in Alba, Pio Cesare has worked hard to promote Barolo and the territory of the Langhe across the globe. Their tireless efforts have been instrumental in creating a unified Barolo identity. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines; Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000