2004 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio Barolo Monprivato

Mascarello’s 2004 Barolo Monprivato is an explosive wine with an almost Pinot-like expression of purity in its fruit. This round, sweet Barolo is extremely primary at this stage, with tons of dense fruit that almost cover the wine’s tannins completely. Subtle overtones of roses and tar develop in the glass, rounding out this majestic wine. Monprivato is one of the world’s very finest values in collectible, age-worthy wine, and the 2004 is another classic in the making. I was blown away by this wine’s sheer balance and harmony, both of which are remarkable considering the wine’s age. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Moderately saturated medium red. Captivating, soil-driven nose melds pungent herbs, blueberry, mocha, tobacco, smoke and earth. Quite suave on entry, then sweet, floral and a bit unforthcoming in the middle, with subtle hints of menthol, herbs and flowers kept under wraps by firm acidity. Nuanced in a Burgundian way. There's nothing particularly accessible about this very closed young wine, but the complex, mouthcoating finish suggests that it has considerable potential.

Mascarello’s 2004 Barolo Monprivato is an explosive wine with an almost Pinot-like expression of purity in its fruit. This round, sweet Barolo is extremely primary at this stage, with tons of dense fruit that almost cover the wine’s tannins completely. Subtle overtones of roses and tar develop in the glass, rounding out this majestic wine. Monprivato is one of the world’s very finest values in collectible, age-worthy wine, and the 2004 is another classic in the making. I was blown away by this wine’s sheer balance and harmony, both of which are remarkable considering the wine’s age. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world. Wine Advocate # 179. Antonio Galloni.