1993 Domaine René Engel Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
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This bottle of 1993 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from the late Philippe Engel completely blew me, and several others seated around the table, away. It represents perhaps the greatest Clos Vougeot that I have tasted from Engel and suggests the previous bottle tasted in Paris four years earlier was faulty. It has a vivacious, showstopping nose that blossoms in the glass, floral with red berry fruit, incense and wilted rose petals, all delivered with astounding delineation. The palate is gentle and refined, almost understated initially but gains in power with aeration. There is something ineffably effortless about this Clos Vougeot; its pixelated finish is a wonder to behold. Fabulous. Tasted at a private dinner in London.
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Robert Parker
Robert Parker
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The 1993 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from the late Philippe Engel is a disappointing bottle. The bouquet feels overtly high-toned and oaky, atypically for a 1993 that is usually the epitome of elegance. The palate is ripe and sweet: a core of red cherries and wild strawberry intermixed with orange sorbet and soy. There is plenty of energy extant on this Clos Vougeot but it lacks the breeding, the sophistication that I expected. I wonder if the late Philippe Engel picked this too late? Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris.
A fully mature (but not post-mature) nose speaks of pungent earth, ripe dark berry fruit and subtle underbrush and animale notes that can be found on the rich, detailed and precise big-bodied flavors that are still underpinned by moderately firm but not aggressive tannins and fine length. This would normally deserve a higher rating as the depth really is quite impressive but there is a trace of finishing dryness that holds it back a bit. This will age effortlessly for years to come but it's certainly approachable now with pleasure. Note that I have experienced a lot of bottle variation over the years and scores have ranged, somewhat incredibly, from 92 to 87. Drink: Now+
Engel's 1993s reveal some of the vintage's toughness, but there is also plenty of sweet, ripe fruit, particularly in the three grand crus. The most tannic and closed of the quartet is the Clos de Vougeot. However, it possesses the necessary richness and intensity to stand up to the high tannin level. Deeply-colored, with a reticent bouquet, full body, considerable tannin, yet excellent concentration, it may be debatable whether this wine will ever merit an outstanding score, but it is certainly excellent. Four to five years of cellaring should reveal this wine's full potential. Engel's 1993s may be the finest and most consistent group of wines he has yet made. All were bottled without filtration, and the Grands Echezeaux was bottled with neither fining nor filtration. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42554293), various American importers